Part 2: Ellie Runs Away to Mexico

Our quick getaway was everything I had hoped for, but I also looked forward to reconnecting with Gracy's family and getting to know her home town.  We head into downtown SLP on Friday night, and it was bursting with the activity of a vibrant population.  

Line dancing, street food, endless strolling through the city's promenades, and people watching in the numerous squares could entertain me forever. We saw weddings, quinceñeras, mobs of high school athletes, teenage couples in love-- the young and the old, families and friends all came together to enjoy their city on a warm spring evening.

Mulletes are open faced sandwiches toped with beans, cheese, lettuce, and tomato, and are the best cheap meal around.  This woman, known to all as the Mulletes Lady, has been selling large baskets like these since Gracy was a teen. After soaking up the scenery we head home for a quiet home made dinner.

On Sunday and we enjoyed a slow morning with sweet pastries and coffee. I wanted to stick to the family's routine and attend mass, part of me also wanted to see how much Catholic masses around the world had in common.  Bonus: it was the national Day of the Children and special blessings (and chocolates) were given out to children.

Look Mom and Dad!  I went to mass!

After mass we travelled along the city's main promenade and passed a small parade celebrating the Day of Children.  Amy and I were interested in visiting the city's regional museum that is housed in a converted monastery.

 

After learning about the region's history and viewing artifacts and art, we were ready for paletas and a stroll.

On our final evening we were invited into a family friend's home.  The family was originally from France, but lived in SLP for work in the manufacturing industry. They graciously hosted us for lunch on their rooftop terrace, offering typical Mexican offerings such as micheladas, chicharones, and nopal salad.

As the afternoon transitioned to night, lunch morphed into dinner, and the wine, port, and mescal came out. They added a guitar, and you know this Filipina can't resist a singalong.  The rest is history.

The mid-morning flight home allowed us to prepare and pack at a relaxed pace. Most concerning was the weight of my suitcase-- I had 4 bottles of liquor and 100 enchiladas potosinas, amongst other things.  I used the travel time to study and catch up on work, reflect on the friends that never left my heart, and plan my return to this beautiful and culturally rich country.

After 6 days away, my little luchadores tackled me with hugs and begged for stories of my exotic travels.  I emptied the treasures that filled my suitcase, and shared the ways our neighbors to the south  are so much like us.

While in Mexico I noticed how much the customs and culture felt so familiar.  I say that the Filipinos are the Mexicans of Asia, sharing a cultural history with Spain and enjoying rich diversity in the peoples that call our countries home.  But my connection wasn't due to our shared history-- I related to their desire to celebrate and bring joy to any occasion. Every laugh is a LOL. Music is best listened to loud. More colors are better. Hot sauce on everything. I'll sum it up with a phrase that some say when they meet you for the very first time, "Much gusto."

Part 1: Ellie Runs Away to Mexico

At the end of April I made a long overdue visit to reunite with dear friends from our old life in Arlington, VA.  If you and I go way back, you'll know how much my playgroup saved my life as a new mother and West Coast transplant.  Leaving back in 2013 marked a major shift for all of our families, an almost complete disbandment of our self-organized community. My friend Gracy made good on a promise to visit us in 2015, and it was our turn to visit her in her hometown of San Lius Potosí, Mexico.  

After a red-eye flight to Houston we boarded a teeny "Express" jet to the SLP.  San Luis is the capital and the most populous city of the Mexican state of San Luis Potosí. The city lies at an elevation of 6,070 feet with an estimated population of  1,021,688 in its metropolitan area. 

From the airport we went straight to the supermarket.  Gracy needed some things but little did she know of mine and Amy's love of exotic grocery store exploration.  We spent almost an hour of perusing the aisles for snacks, candies, and local made goods to bring home. Afterwards Gracy brought us to a neighborhood hole-in-the-wall where 5 women made ready to cook masa and the local specialty: enchiladas potosina.

These delicious packets of goodness are made with a chili infused masa and stuffed with cheese.  We ordered 100 to bring back with us, but scarfed a few down in the car ride home.

That night we got a last-minute sitter to watch the kids so we could go out to dinner.  La Fragua made all my taco fantasies come true, and it was the first place I tried a michelada. Salud!

The next morning I was awakened by the sounds of rushed footsteps of children and Gracy's hurried "Andalé!" I really wanted to see the kids' school so I jumped out of bed, got ready as quickly as I could, and made it in time to walk them to school. The ritual of getting the kids to school, making sure they have everything they need, and looking presentable is the same no matter the country.

Upon our return we had a quiet house to enjoy our coffee, breakfast, and fresh squeezed juice.  At that moment in time I knew I was officially on vacation.

When 2 busy moms make plans late after the kids are in bed, arrangements and reservations can get mixed up.  We originally didn't have time for a trip outside SLP, but my multiparous dementia (my own diagnosis) caused me to "accidentally" book our departure one day earlier than planned.  Gracy responded in turn by booking one night at a swank hotel in San Migeul de Allende. 

SLP is located near the "Cradle of Independence",  and we stopped in Dolores Hidalgo where Father Miguel Hidalgo uttered his famous cry for the independence of Mexico.

We visited the famous church Nuestra Señora de los Dolores. These bells were used to summon people to church earlier than usual when Hidalgo issued the Grito de Dolores, also known as the Grito de Independencia. (Note: I realize I'm doing a shitty job detailing Mexico's history.  For a better explanation go here.)

Equally famous is the town's ice cream, with its wacky flavors.  I skipped on the shrimp and tequila flavors, opting to sample exotic fruit (tuna= the fruit of the the prickly pear cactus) and crema.

A few hours later we made it to the quaint town of San Miguel. Cobblestone lanes lined by beautiful homes make the hillside town a popular retirement destination for Americans (most of whom are living there illegally.) We checked into our swank hotel and got straight to exploring. The town is known for its pristine colonial architecture, numerous art galleries, and mild weather.

We ate lunch on a terrace restaurant then made our way to the town mercado, which featured a bit of everything.  Produce, food stands, flowers, and handicrafts, it was the perfect place to see the locals and find souvenires.

It was starting to warm up, and I took advantage of the abundance of fresh squeezed juice stalls.

All that walking on cobblestone made us tired, so we decided to make use of the fabulous pool. Waitstaff arrived with drink menus, and who am I to refuse?

Much later that night (Mexican dinners start at 8:30 at the earliest) we hit the town for dinner at Gracy's friend's restuarant. All dressed up ,we ate on the terrace bar having fun watching a wedding party prepare for the big day by getting slizzered.

Not hung over ourselves the following morning, we took our coffee slowly at the hotel then wandered over to a lovely breakfast spot. We took in our last sights of the town before checking out.

The last stop of the trip was an old textile factory that was coverted into an artist collective.  Galleries dot the town, and art is a big draw to both tourists and retirees.  This large, airy, and light space was a delight to wander.

After an uneventful drive back North, we were greeted by Gracy's parents and children. Part 2 is all about our time in SLP.